Last Drop Elizabethan review: Mock Tudor and cosy interior make Bedfordale English pub uncannily accurate

Perth’s cold snap — well, as cold as it ever really gets this close to the equator — has arrived. The city’s fine array of open, airy cafes and restaurants that are in-season nine months of the year start to look out of place and ill-equipped; did those balmy evenings quaffing white wine at corner bars and acai bowl brunches after a coastal walk really take place here? One consolation is WA winters don’t last long. Another is that it’s a great opportunity to embrace the uncharacteristically cosy atmosphere and look for eateries that match the new milieu. Being from Blighty I’m fairly spoilt when it comes to hearty Western fare. My parents’ roast dinner rota is akin to the English Premier League season, stopping only for about two months at the peak of summer. So the promise of wolfing down Yorkshire puddings by the fire of a “beautiful old English pub”, courtesy of the crew at Last Drop Elizabethan, strikes me as a hugely appealing way to spend a chilly Sunday afternoon. And for plenty of other punters too apparently. Booked tables for a Sunday lunch have been locked in well in advance at the Bedfordale haunt, though we’re assured by a genial publican on the phone we should be able to squeeze in somewhere during the late afternoon lull. Last Drop Elizabethan’s main building has the mock Tudor facade, black latticed windows and red brick look quintessential of an English pub. There’s a verdant, grassy beer garden to the front that, in equally English spirit, would make a marvellous setting for summer drinks. First impressions are good, the second impression entering the joint is even better. Low ceilings, black beams, uneven stone flooring, weathered intimate booths, even crisps behind the bar. It’s actually quite jarring to be somewhere that feels so much like the other side of the world; the white aircon unit on the wall is probably the only giveaway. A pint feels like the natural beverage to be enjoying by the fire, and they have their own brews on tap. I ask for the closest thing to a lager — hey, when in Rome. At 4pm Last Drop Elizabethan is out of their evidently uber-popular roast dinners; though perhaps mercifully for readers, because no one wants to hear this Pom banging on about how the potatoes really should be done. And let’s be honest, we all think our Mum’s are the most superior anyway. Fear not, there’s ample other English-inspired stodge to have at. And Australian classics too, of fried calamari and chicken parmigiana alongside usual modern pub fixings of burgers and pizzas. I’d say it would be good to see an Anglo-Indian curry, a tikka masala or similar on the menu to really nail the basics of an English pub offering. A trio of ‘Yorkies’ at $18 sounds like a great way to sample Last Drop’s professed quintessential fare — there’s a vegetarian option too if beef brisket is not your preference. A generously-portioned set of gravy-doused baked goods appear very promptly after ordering. I’m a tad bemused by a garnish of spring onion on top. I won’t go so far as to say this is blasphemous because I appreciate it’s probably an attempt to brighten up the visuals of a dish that is unashamedly, brown. Own it I say! The gravy ratios are great, moistening the Yorkshires without totally drenching, and leaving the crispy edges free to provide some textural contrast to a doughy underbelly that is a good balance of springy and dense. Nestled in each cup are dollops of a beef brisket that is tender, juicy and tasty. There’s mozzarella inside too which isn’t as out of place as one imagines; I’d be intrigued to try with a melted sharper cheese instead. The gravy itself is smooth and a great thickness, a crucial element we all appreciate. There’s enough give for it to be absorbed where necessary but it’s not at all watery, definitely on the right side of the consistency tracks. It’s not necessarily the meatiest of flavours and there’s quite a few herbs involved, but it’s got the comforting savoury profile required. Very enjoyable. A coveted table by the fire and a jovial playlist rolling along makes for a cosy and very easy atmosphere. Ample beverages could easily roll by here. It’s not a stretch to get the same feeling as being in a country pub in England. Sausage and mash is the main, and it’s a glorious thing to behold. The portion is fabulous value for $26. The three sausages are locally-made, thick and seared wonderfully so there’s a nice snap to the skin. Not overly-seasoned or salty, the pork is well ground and peppered with the aniseed hum of fennel. And no complaints re the mashed potato, a great accompaniment which has been worked at thoroughly without broaching too far into ultra-creamy Paris Mash territory. It could do with another knob of salted butter. The steamed peas, broccoli and green beans are a refreshingly simple side of vegetables, and a bonus Yorkshire rounds off a robust and satisfying pub dish. The beef pie for $27, based on sheer volume of food at the table, is another tick for good value. Scoops of crispy and well-fried chips, and a helping of a classic mesclun-based pub side salad. A blanket of rough puff pastry sits across the top of a pie dish to cover the filling, rather than having a full base and outer. I prefer plenty of the golden stuff and feel it falls a bit short of the buttery, flaky sensation I’m after. Those who dread being left short on a filling however won’t be disappointed, it’s boozy with plenty of beef and piping hot. Optimal conditions for dipping chips in. A warm sticky date pudding ($13.50) is the natural conclusion. The cake is light and sits in a bath of ultra-sweet butterscotch sauce, with both vanilla ice-cream and whipped cream adding to the sugary dessert soup. The verdict: 14/20 Come for the English pub atmosphere, stay for the English pub atmosphere. Last Drop Elizabethan isn’t claiming to reinvent the wheel on food, but the value for rib-sticking pub fare is fabulous and the venue is the closest thing you’ll get to a real-deal throwback to Blighty in Perth. Last Drop Elizabethan 25 Canns Rd, Bedfordale Open: Monday to Friday, 11am - 11pm, Saturday 10am - 11pm, Sunday 10am - 10pm Contact: 9399 4531 Bookings: Yes