A stroll through South Freo

There’s a gentle sea breeze blowing, the cricket is on the big screen, and I am sipping my first coffee of the day — in a South Fremantle brewery.

Having breakfast at Running With Thieves isn’t the plan, until I spy the word “cafe” after brewery, distillery and bar on a sign facing South Terrace.

I intend to start with a bagel and coffee at Staples Bagels, one of a trio of popular shipping container food outlets. Alas, all the shady seats are taken, which is how I end up in Running With Thieves.

Weaving my way past brew tanks, booths and arcade games, I find myself at the cafe counter facing Marine Terrace.

Quality coffee by Darkstar, fresh juice and breakfast fare are available. I arrive just after the official breakfast cut off but manage to snare a tasty brekky wrap and coffee. Enjoying the food and the breeze, I tap away on my laptop using the free wi-fi.

Given its proximity to the dog beach, Running With Thieves like many other local businesses is dog friendly.

Although I have visited South Fremantle many times in the evening — usually to eat at La Cabana — I have barely scratched the surface of this vibrant area during daylight hours.

Strolling down South Terrace, colourful kimonos, collectables and a wall of teapots and cups catch my eye in Miss Sallies, a relatively new addition to the strip.

Sally Sutherlin had been collecting tea pots and high tea sets for years, hoping to one day open a boutique. Here you can enjoy a cuppa, have a scone, and design your own high tea stand.

Stepping over the threshold of Ginger Morris, right away I know this is going to be bad for my wallet. Sophie Morris, who has a design background, opened the store 12 years ago and has a loyal local following.

Clothing, accessories and homewares are beautifully presented alongside vintage glasses and Japanese bowls. I treat myself to a pink and gold crocheted shopping bag — big enough to fit my laptop!

A little further down the street, I almost bypass Zhuzh, thinking it is a hair salon. Like most of the shopkeepers I encounter, owner Alison Richards lives and works locally. She has a background in accommodation management but opened Zhuzh two years ago.

Part gift shop, part design store, there are hats, umbrellas, eskies, coasters and T-shirts by local and international brands. This is the sort of place to go when shopping for “the person who has everything”. Alison recently hosted the launch of journalist and author Jolly Read’s latest children’s book, Quokka And The Snowman, illustrated by Natasha Lea.

If you like bright shiny things, it will be hard to walk past Izuba Jewellery Shop and Studio. A fun space to create and collect charms, owner Jen Moray holds regular workshops for customers to make their own necklaces, bracelets or anklets from hundreds of charms and chains.

Swiss mural artist Angelina Gadient is busy finishing a new piece for Jen, having brightened up many walls around WA, including the side of Three Little Pigs across the road.

Biscuit manufacturer Arnott Mills and Ware is immortalised in the wrought iron gates outside apartments where its factory used to be.

Baking of a different type lives on in the array of breads, pastries, rolls and sweet treats from Little Loaf and Wild bakeries.

South Terrace has no shortage of heritage pubs, bars, restaurants and cafes including Roasting Warehouse, Percy Flint, Madalena’s Bar and New Orleans-themed bar Big Easy.

Gardeners will find joy among the greenery at Harbour Plants, while Terrace Greenhouse is a boutique garden centre, gift shop and art gallery.

After my four hours of free parking is up at South Beach, it’s time to move the car. I wind up outside Sealanes, where the seafood retailer has a fish and chip cafe open from noon until 8pm.

All day I have been watching people wandering between Marine Terrace and South Terrace in thongs and towels. It’s obvious I need to end the day with a dip at South Beach.

I’m impressed by how big and clean the long awaited new change rooms are. They’re much nicer than those on beaches further north.

The beach sand is soft, the water is sparkling under the late afternoon sun, and teenagers are enjoying the start of their summer holidays by swimming to and from the pontoon. It feels more like a South West beach than a suburban one.

South Fremantle is just under 3km from the heart of Fremantle or a 30-minute walk.

Next time, I’ll be tempted to check in somewhere for the night so I can explore the parts I missed.

+ visitfremantle.com.au