Siem Reap notebook

Siem Reap. Cambodia. Angkor Wat temples. I’m here, deluged with images, history, humidity. And so, I just start jotting in my notebook . . . the whole intense, saturating experience . . .

EATING IT UP

Food is good and mostly safe. I’d still avoid salads, but the good thing, of course, is that there are plenty of rice and stir fries. For really good food, I head to Street 14 in Mondul 1 — to Vibe (plant based and vegan, clean food), Maybe Later, Mexican bar and grill; and Common Grounds Cafe, next door for good coffee and desserts, or meals. Many businesses in Siem Reap are connected to or support ethical projects and Common Grounds Cafe is a good example. Its mission is to fund sustainable human relief. It’s statement: “We are not about profits, but people.” There’s support for the Common Grounds Learning Centre, children’s homes, and sustainable farming projects. The necklaces for sale in the cafe are made by girls trying to fund university education, or widows supporting their families. They receive 100 per cent of the price.

MADE IN THE MARKET

I’m making for the Made in Cambodia Market, in King’s Road by the Siem Reap River, and browse the stalls of jewellery and art and fabrics, straight off the nearby loom. The people behind the market pride themselves on bringing together fine examples of today’s Cambodian craftsmanship. There are cafes and restaurants all around.

SCAMBODIA

Tourism is dramatically down in Siem Reap, home of Angkor Wat, the centrepiece of the Angkor Archaeological Park.

For all that, it can still be difficult to deal with some local drivers. It seems that being keen for income isn’t helping.

Indeed, some of the drivers in Siem Reap have worked hard to earn the nickname I give them — Scambodians.

A tuktuk ride that is agreed for $US3 ($4.50) when you get in is $US6 when you get out. “One way, two way,” they argue.

Some agree on $US35 for a full day for a car and driver, and suddenly, because it’s been a long day and you wanted to go here and there, it’s $US50. For another couple, it’s suddenly $US30 each, and a brief row ensues, before the visitors back off and pay the money.

The fact is that when it comes to a face-off over the set price, locals will be better at it than most of us.

+ The best way to go about booking a tuktuk is through your accommodation.

+Do your research, decide which temples you want to see, which order, and make a plan (your plan) with the driver. I write a list, agree it with the driver, write the price agreed on it too, and stick to it. Or I agree to pay them by the hour, and write that on a piece of paper — “Five hours, $US25”, which is a fair rate for them.

+ Be aware that if you change the plan or add temples, you’ll be up for a renegotiation.

+ For a driver in an air-conditioned car, expect to pay $US40 a day. (This is where many of the world’s Lexus LX300s come to retire.)

+ For a tuktuk and driver, $US25 to $US35 a day.

And, having said all that, to avoid feeling I’m being scammed, I take the amount quoted as a “loss leader price” and mentally double it.

MONKS & KIDS

+ Fake monks push incense into your hand, murmur a prayer and then try to get you to pay for it, in US dollars.

+ Don’t buy from children, who are better off at school, learning to be good future Cambodians.

+ I pay $US1 for a can of cold drink.

STAYING LOCAL

From the front, Villa Um Theara isn’t impressive — a white wall and gateway on a busy street.

But, behind that wall, the noise drops away, there’s greenery, a swimming pool, places to sit under umbrellas or in full shade, and a reception in what feels like a traditional Khmer home.

Villa Um Theara is a three-star local hotel. It’s where Cambodians stay, and it’s where I am staying for $38 a night, including breakfast.

When I arrive to check-in, the young man on the front desk is apologetic: “The room is still wet.” I will have to wait 15 to 20 minutes, as it has just been mopped.

The room, has, indeed been mopped. In fact, it is impeccably clean. It is also spacious, with a comfortable queen-sized bed, writing desk, tea and coffee making, fridge, TV and sizeable bathroom.

The room is beautifully presented.

There’s free wi-fi and the room is completely quiet — I can’t even hear the few other guests in adjacent rooms through these thick walls.

And there’s barely even a distant murmur of the busy streets of Siem Reap.

Villa Um Theara is, indeed, an urban oasis.

TREE OF KNOWLEDGE

Streblus asper. Common name “moraceae”. The “More-I-Understand” tree.

fact file

+ Villa Um Theara: #150, Wat Bo Road, City Central, Siem Reap, Cambodia. +855 12 849 222. villaumtheara.com

* Angkor Archaeological Park has an Angkor Pass: $US37 for one day, $US62 for three, $US72 for seven. It must be used on consecutive days. Angkor Ticket Centre in Siem Reap is open daily from 5am until 5.30pm.

+ Temple times: Angkor Wat and Srah Srang are open daily from 5am until 5.30pm. Phnom Bakheng and Pre Rup are open daily from 5am until 7pm. All other temples are open daily from 7.30am until 5.30pm.