Whichever way you slice it, Gibney changed things.

Sure, David Coomer’s Star Anise flew a large WA flag, so too Wildflower (which we’ll happily admit has again found itself), but it’s the lavish Cottesloe fine diner that grabbed a national and international spotlight and helped illuminate the broader brilliance of the Perth — and WA — culinary scene.

“In the case of Perth, things have evolved exponentially the last decade,” states restaurateur George Kailis, the man behind Gibney. “We used to always be behind what’s happening in Sydney or Melbourne — that’s not the case today.”

Kailis, 48, sees a three-way pushing Perth’s, and the State’s, foodie ascendancy: superior WA produce, sophisticated local diners, WA talent.

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“A lot of what you’re seeing on the better menus in Sydney and Melbourne comes from WA — our access is amazing. A lot of people travel across the country and internationally and so they come to expect things, and those who don’t travel still have access to social media and so they see great products, great restaurants and great plates.”

As for that local talent?

“I look at someone like our (Gibney) head chef James Cole Bowen — he was contemplating moving to Sydney or Melbourne to advance his career when the opportunity came up; he’s now firmly planted here. And I see a lot of local operators who are right up there and really pushing things in Perth and down south, which is really becoming a very strong food destination.”

gibneycottesloe.com

Kailis’ top tables

Testun

“No-rules Italian fare from some very creative and passionate young hospitality professionals. Go for any pasta and grilled mortadella on a stick.”

760 Beaufort St, Mt Lawley, Perth; testun.com.au

Sal’s Pasta“Paul Salmeri’s pasta deli-cum-restaurant-cum-bakery that does everything right. The eggplant pinsa is the stuff of dreams.” 44 Napoleon St, Cottesloe, Perth; salspastadeli.com

Chow’s Table (regional)“Mal Chow delivers world-class Chinese-Malay in the Margaret River region. Hit the dumplings, particularly in truffle season, and roast duck, obviously.”5 Quininup Rd, Yallingup; chowstable.com.au

Max Brearley’s top restaurants

Max Brearley on where to eat — and indulge — across a city that’s properly punching up.

Tigerfish

The location, as part of The Cottesloe Beach Hotel, pulls the crowds, so too a youthful energy.

South-East Asia is the flavour, head chef Stephen Ryu succeeding in matching the upbeat nature of Tigerfish with piquant lamb ribs, a fish finger bao with yellow curry mayo to order on repeat, and larger signatures like wok-tossed mud crab.

Drinks orbit around a cocktail list that’s appropriately coastal, giving new life to the idea of a house punch, a refined riff on the 1848 Fish House classic, albeit using a peach tea and honey liqueur and cranberry caviar.

When lunch has stretched well beyond sunset, there’s always the karaoke room.

104 Marine Parade, Cottesloe; cottesloebeachhotel.com.au

Pearla & Co

There’s a lot at play within this North Freo newcomer from renowned local chef Scott Bridger.

Well beyond our borders, chefs and diners revere WA produce, but it’s what comes from our coastline and out in the deep that excites the likes of Josh Niland, the Sydney-based seafood savant.

You’ll see many cues from the Niland playbook here, but also Bridger’s decades-long career on and around the ocean. You’ll find dry-aged fish tartare, foraged sea vegetables and the light char of a hibachi grill on fish sourced from people he knows well beyond just texting an order.

At a time when access to seafood from our south-west has become a political battleground with livelihoods on the line, eating at Pearla & Co feels like support for those who have moulded our love of eating from the ocean.

25 Leighton Beach Blvd, North Fremantle; pearlaandco.com.au

Casa Nostra

An opulent bolthole in the meat packing district of the industrial estate of Osborne Park, Casa Nostra might be the best restaurant you’ve never heard of. Tucked away in the European Ceramics building, this sexy cafe and restaurant is frequented by families, tradies and local louche types alike. You’d go there just to be fussed over by the ineffable Alexia Serra but then: rustic yet refined dishes such as pan-fried pearl perch with an al dente AF fennel risotto or an ethereal amatriciana pasta. Pizzas, too, are among the city’s best. There’s a roster of specials such as Fremantle octopus with nduja and a tight, classy drinks list.

38 King Edward Road, Osborne Park; casanostracaffe.com.au

Kith Eatery

Is a good breakfast something that West Australians take for granted? It’s the comment from a thousand visitors, as they join the dots between our sunny coastal environs, world-class coffee culture and a healthy disposition to good bread and things on it.

Under chef Alex Turner, not long returned from stellar positions in London, Kith excels in this culinary genre from focaccia to English muffins, using stracciatella, local Stakehill tomatoes, mortadella and, yes, some whipped avo.

Owners Joel Sneeuwjagt and Jess Chisari-Sneeuwjagt, who count Someday Coffee and Ol’ Buoy among their stable, have created a local spot worth the journey. And keep an eye out for a new evening service, ideal for those who hit snooze.

51 Aberdare Rd, Nedlands; kitheatery.com

Casa

Fate perhaps, but Covid grounded chef Paul Bentley in his native Perth and the result is Casa.

Bentley trained under Alain Fabregues at Mundaring’s legendary Loose Box before decades abroad. He sharpened his skills at Daniel, the New York flagship of the Boulud empire, before building his own interests in Mexico.

These influences are woven through Casa’s menu, from a rich chicken liver parfait toast and the bistro burger (a sometimes off-menu staple of high-end New York dining) to octopus tostada and the bright energy of Mexican salsa.

The wine program is about the party, driven by co-owner Cale Mason. It’s all wrapped up in a pared-back space that doesn’t rely on million-dollar fit-outs for its personality — the servers here have that in spades.

399 Oxford St, Mt Hawthorn; casa-casa-casa.com

Top bars

Cherubino City Cellar

A refined and promising discovery, this Rokeby Road bar-cum-bistro entered off Xanthis Lane showcases winemaker Larry Cherubino’s output across Frankland River, Pemberton and Margaret River.

Far from parochial, Australian regions beyond the west feature on the list, which also holds a solid international selection.

From antipasto and freshly shucked oysters to ample pork cotoletta, Italian-focused menus can hit cues for long lunches or late-night dining.

169-171 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco; cherubinowines.com

Bar Love

Serious cocktail talent meets retro-styled hedonism. In the rarefied world of high-end bartending, Perth’s scene has punched above its weight for years.

Owners Pippa Dowden and Murray Walsh anchor this love letter to good drinks, changing the list often while bringing Perth drinkers the likes of the Dirty Little Grot Martini — leaning into a house brine that blends pickle juice with onion and pepper brine.

195 Brisbane St, Perth; barlove.com.au

Mons O’Shea

All things Irish seem to have a cultural cache at the moment and pubs like Mons O’Shea are no exception.

But the success of this Freo cappuccino-strip newcomer isn’t about fashion, more about Dublin-raised third-generation publican Simon Carthy, bartenders who are masters of the two-part pour and chef Jane Collins (ex-Petition).

Spice bags are optional but the craic is guaranteed.

6 South Terrace, Fremantle; monsoshea.com.au