Walk Wadjemup, a guided hike on Rottnest
While jumping on a bike is a popular way to explore Rottnest Island, today I am eschewing pedal power for my own two feet as I set off on the inaugural Walk Wadjemup with The Hike Collective.
Walk Wadjemup is part of the Wadjemup Bidi Discovery Project, a seasonal series of guided hikes designed to increase hiking on Wadjemup while deepening awareness of the its unique environmental, cultural, and heritage values.
“We saw an opportunity to bring awareness to the Bidi and bring an option to visitors to explore the island in a different way, while also engaging in cultural immersion,” says The Hike Collective founder Kate Gibson of the idea behind the walk.
“So, we approached Rottnest Foundation about options to work with them.”
Wadjemup is the Noongar name for Rottnest, and Bidi is the word for a path or trail.
Catching the 7.30am Rottnest Express ferry from Fremantle, I arrive in time for a morning coffee and a browse of the Rottnest Bakery. Somehow, I have forgotten snacks, but that problem is solved with a quick visit to the Rottnest General Store.
While scoffing a bakery scroll, I am almost the victim of daylight robbery. A curious quokka has brazenly dived into my backpack, which I quickly zip up and place on higher ground.
We meet our guide Leighton De Barros at the visitor centre at 9.30am. You may not know his name, but you may well have seen the work of the four-time Emmy award-nominated producer, cinematographer and documentary maker on TV.
Each tour starts with a cultural welcome from Noongar elder Nev Collard. We walk through the smoke and rub our armpit scent on to sand and throw it into the sea so the Wagyl will keep us safe.
Unsurprisingly, Nev says many Aboriginal people won’t come to Rottnest given its cruel history of incarcerating up to 4000 Aboriginal men and boys from around WA between 1838 and 1931.
Nev hands over to his daughter Terri Lawrence, who takes us to the shockingly small limestone beach holding cell where, on arrival, dozens of Aboriginal men were packed in like sardines.
Like many of us, Terri stayed at Tentland on a camping trip as a teenager, unaware it was an Aboriginal burial site.
Officially closed in 2007, the former Tentland is a place Terri says even birds don’t like to visit.
Nev and Terri’s introduction offers a personal connection to Wadjemup’s history, culture, and significance.
After browsing Wadjemup Museum, Terri bids us farewell and we continue our walk along the Ngank Yira Bidi (southern coast along the Bickley Battery Heritage Trail), discovering World War II history and artefacts. From late October to November, Walk Wadjemup follows the 10km Gabbi Karniny Bidi (Salt Lakes Loop) inland.
Given his years working up close with wildlife, Leighton easily engages us with stories and facts about whales, dolphins, ospreys, sea lions and the blind tiger snakes of neighbouring Carnac Island.
If we see scrappy-looking quokkas, he says they are probably males who have been fighting each other.
As an infrequent visitor to Rottnest, I find myself lagging behind to admire the views, take photos and read interpretive signs. There’s so much I haven’t seen — so much I didn’t know.
As we circle back to the start, I fall on some smooth but deceptively slippery rocks on the water’s edge, a reminder to tread gently and mindfully — and perhaps get better shoes.
Running in conjunction with the walks is Lead Wadjemup, a free hands-on guide training program to help empower volunteers to become confident, culturally aware hiking leaders on Wadjemup and beyond.
Each walk also helps restore Wadjemup, with 100 per cent of ticket sales going to the Rottnest Foundation to support its work revegetating woodlands, upgrading Bidi trails, caring for quokkas, and preserving stories of the land’s deep past.
Morning hikes return with plenty of time to enjoy lunch before returning to the mainland.
My visit coincides with the launch of the new menu at Lontara at Samphire Rottnest, where head chef Zack Fong is blending Indonesian and South-East Asian traditions with the best of WA’s ocean and farm produce.
Think fall-off-the bone char siu lamb shoulder and crispy fried whole emperor fish with Thai three-flavour sauce, followed by Vietnamese-style creme caramel or chewy coconut sugar pavlova with peach and makrut lime.
I could have happily ended my hike with a pie and doughnut, but there’s always next time.
+ Sue Yeap was a guest of the Rottnest Island Authority, The Hike Collective and Lontara. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.
fact file
Seasonal Walk Wadjemup tours are on October 18, October 25 and November 8. Tickets are $29.
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