Mister D’Arcy bar and restaurant review: Excellent mod-Asian tucker deserves better service, and crockery

There we were, sitting on a tall table on glorified bar stools eating very good food at a better-than-average restaurant called Mister D’Arcy in a northern suburban diner that wasn’t even half full. Perhaps this is what they call elevated dining, but I just wouldn’t mind a view out the window at the glorious blue sky without having to perch like a ventriloquist dummy on a wobbly chair. Once home to one of Perth’s most beloved restaurants in (super-chef Stephen) Clarke’s of North Beach, the food in this joint is bloody good. The service is not. What there is of it. You have to order at a till and grab your own water. The D’Arcys also own The Iluka and Temple Bar in Iluka, and Jarrah in Hillarys. They appear to be building an eatery empire in Perth’s northern corridor. The vibe is Raffles, that is, Singapore not Applecross. Thankfully, the prices are more Applecross than Singapore, yet do not reflect the counter service regime. I’ll say it again, the food deserves better. Pause. Breathe. The staff are lovely, just not the most proactive. Why would they be? We’re meant to come to the bar, multiple times, to order starters, mains, drinks and dessert. If you’re paying $44 for a curry, and if you’re sharing it, you want a decent bowl in which to plonk rice and, for example, the rich sauce of the excellent Kapitan chicken curry. We got a flat share plate. This is not a pub slinging cheeseburgers and pints. Mister D’Arcy isn’t even that big. Surely, the three floor staff on duty the day Myra and I dined, perched aloft, could have worked the tables. Putting aside the colonial bric-a-brac strewn artfully around the bar/restaurant, the venue was a tad drab. There was no music, which might have been a blessing — if I never hear another soulless Cafe del Mar ChillOut mix, it’ll still be too soon. But this Mister had all the atmosphere of a palliative care ward on the Friday afternoon we drove north. The solid wine list offered 19 by the glass, all around the $14-15 mark. There’s also tap beers and cocktails, including a traditional Raffles Singapore sling for $25. The menu is divided into cold and hot small share plates, larger share plates, rice and noodles (plus chaat masala fries) and dessert. We started with the blue fin tuna tartare on crispy rice squares (six bites for $28), which were crunchy fun — a bit like fancy prawn toast with a hit of spice thanks to the sriracha kewpie mayo and ponzu sauce. A canny little starter. The ma hor or galloping horses were four sweet and spicy mounds of crispy duck and pork belly, imbued with chives, fish sauces, chilli ginger jam and cashews riding small slices of fresh pineapple ($18). Subtle spice galloped across my palate, soon reined in and tethered by the pineapple. Shark Bay popcorn prawns ($25) were loads of fun, a bit like Nobu’s famous rock shrimp tempura. Mister D’Arcy calls this KFC, or Kashmir fried chaat, and serves the super tasty nuggets of prawn in crispy golden better with wasabi kewpie sprinkled with chilli plus fresh lime. There are five curries, costing $34-$48, among the larger share plates. All come with enough jasmine rice for two. We had the Kapitan chicken curry ($38), an incredibly fragrant Malay dish of ridiculously tender chicken in a mildly spicy curry infused with turmeric and prawn head oil. Mister D’Arcy’s version was creamy without being overly rich. The crispy beef fillet salad ($35) was a surprise, in a good way. A dry dish with striking aromas from fried curry leaves and kaffir lime, plus a spicy nuoc cham dressing on the cabbage, coriander, spring onion and other greens. The moreish beef was fried into chewy flavoursome little strips that made my wife reckoned tasted like a Thai Big Mac. We eschewed the temptation of curry chips to leave room for the molten chocolate brownie ($22), which had a baked exterior and a hot fudgy centre. Accompanied with excellent matcha green tea ice-cream and a little jug of Nikka Japanese coffee whiskey ganache, this dessert was served on a wooden bowl — an intriguing choice for a dish involving ice-cream. Asian fare this good deserves decent service and better crockery before comparisons with Nobu, Long Chim or Leederville’s excellent Will St. are warranted. Until then, Mister D’Arcy remains an enigma. Mister D’Arcy 97 Flora Terrace, North Beach OPEN Monday-Thursday, 4pm-10pm. Friday-Saturday, midday-11pm. Sunday, midday-10pm. CONTACT 0419 269 472, darcyhospitalitygroup.com.au BOOKINGS Yes THE VERDICT Vibrant South-East Asian dishes showcasing local produce. Decor evoking colonial Singapore. Counter service. Good drinks list. Neither here nor there, overall. Food deserves better. 14/20